The leather jacket is not a men’s staple. However, it can become a very personal piece that will follow you for years to come, provided you choose it well.
One thing is clear: it is an investment. You can’t cheat on a jacket. This means that if you want to acquire one, you have to plan the necessary budget.
It is important to understand this. It is irrelevant to spend 200 euros/dollars on a “default” jacket that will last only two years before being damaged.
Ultimately, you could buy this kind of second-hand item: you can find a plethora of them in thrift stores or on second-hand sites. Be careful though with period cuts, much wider, which may prove difficult to wear today.
Rest assured: This article will give you some keys to investing ingeniously. What to look for, what fit to opt for, what style to go for 1, and, of course, a few tips from matching brands. We tell you everything!
THE LEATHER JACKET: A CONSIDERED PURCHASE
Checklist of mistakes not to make:
Buy a Bomber leather jacket without having the means: leather is a noble and expensive material. A beautiful jacket is therefore an investment that requires a substantial initial budget.
Buy a low-end item: it is better to have a nice waxed cotton one than a poor synthetic one, shiny, unpleasant to the touch, and which will age badly. It is a material that does not allow for mistakes: bad stuff will show up very quickly.
Not having the effective basics: no need to wear beautiful, well-made, items with low-end jeans with a subtle fading. The contrast in quality and cut will be seen and your efforts will be ruined. Before investing in strong items like this, make sure you already have enough effective and quality basics.
Operate on a whim: we often tell you, but purchase must be reasoned and not triggered by a crush. So of course, you don’t have to function like robots to compare everything and the desire/pleasure factor must also be part of the purchase … But before you turn to a part, ask yourself if it is right for you anyway. Do you see yourself wearing it? If the answer is no, skip your turn!
REALLY, WHAT AM I LOOKING AT?
As with many clothing items, there are several things you should be aware of before purchasing the item.
1. PREFER A TIGHT FIT
A beautiful leather jacket must be fitted. The sleeves have no “balloon” volume, the garment falls to the waistband of the pants, and it naturally follows your blanks. The only exception: if you are a fan of vintage cuts and old leather jackets where it’s just the opposite.
Be careful though: the notion of oversize is already very hard to master in normal times, it is better to be sure of what you are doing before venturing into it.
Why? Oversize is often used on flowing materials (cotton, linen, cold wool, etc.): it is an effect that serves to give allure and amplifies the movement of a garment. However, leather is rigid: it will not move much, even in motion.
You will agree that it takes a certain mastery to play with it and volumes…
Another thing: pay special attention to the sleeves and back. Avoid elastic ribbing like the plague, which will give you a completely compressed lower back, which is often synonymous with poor-quality items.
Finally, retouching is expensive it and there are few skilled retouchers. No need, therefore, to buy an expensive part with the idea of having it taken back if it does not suit you.
In short, go try it or make sure you have taken your measurements to the nearest centimeter.
THE SOBER THE PART, THE EASIER IT WILL BE TO WEAR
Except in the case of a perfecto, avoid too many seams and closures. Your garment is an expensive piece, which you will surely want to make profitable by wearing it often. In this case, opt for a simple and refined model, more versatile.
If you are buying your first item and are still looking for your style, certain types of jackets should be avoided because they will lock you in a total look. Those with “funnel” collars, side zips, or even patches are among them.
If even ASAP Rocky keeps it simple, don’t take any risks…
PREFER A ZIP TO A BUTTONING
Avoid leathers with button closure. The slightly “badass” side of a leather jacket (it is the case to say it) will no longer have any interest in it.
Top-of-the-range will be noticed by a quality zipper: it must be robust, must not close too easily, must not shine, and, on the contrary, be a little weathered.
EXAMINE GRAIN TO ESTABLISH MATTER
The best known and most versatile materials are sheep and lambskins.
Avoid cowhide or buffalo skins which are often thick, stiff, and far too shiny. This does not mean that they are of poor quality but their strength will be more useful for luggage, or a real thick biker leather jacket. Pig leather is coarser. Horse leather is very beautiful and smoother; it is leather that will have to be broken. That is, wear it until it is softer, a bit like raw jeans.
To recognize the animal, you must examine grain 2:
Cow/beef/buffalo: completely uniform grain.
Sheep/lamb: the patterns overlap and are slightly less uniform.
Horse: the grain is smoother.
Pork: we especially notice the pores, which are numerous and deep.